Tutorial: Kathy’s Favorite Appliqué Method

30s applique

I’ve tried a lot of different methods of hand appliqué, and this is my favorite because I like the precise, sharp look it gives me. If you’re not into handwork, you can use this exact preparation method for machine appliqué too.

Supplies for hand appliqué
freezer paper, 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheets
paper cup
heavy spray starch
pressing cloth
iron
Q-tips
appliqué needles (I like Foxglove Cottage Straw Needles)
Roxanne’s Glue-Baste-It
scissors for paper
Sharpie ultra fine marker
scissors for fabric
appliqué fabric
foundation fabric
thread (I like Mettler Fine Embroidery thread for hand applique because it hides itself well)

supplies

1.  Draw or trace your appliqué pattern onto the dull side of a sheet of freezer paper.  If your design is not symmetrical you’ll need draw it on reversed. A heart is a good shape to practice with since it has both inner and outer points.

2.  Layer your drawn pattern shiny side down over a second sheet of freezer paper, also shiny side down.
layer

3.  Press the two sheets together, creating a 2 layer sheet.  Peel it up from the ironing board.
press

4.  Cut out your pattern piece exactly on the line. Be precise because the shape you cut will be the exact shape you end up with in fabric.
cut

5.  Press the freezer paper pattern shiny side down to the wrong side of your applique fabric.
press

6.  Cut out the fabric around the pattern leaving about a 3/16 inch (slightly less than 1/4 inch) seam allowance.
cut

7.  Clip into any inner points, right to the paper.
clip

8.  Spread your pressing cloth out to work on. It will protect your ironing board from getting all starchy and scorched. Spray some heavy starch into a paper cup, or the lid of the starch can. Or mix up you own starch from concentrate if you prefer. With a Q-tip, paint the seam allowance of the appliqué fabric until it is saturated, all the way around the piece.

starch

9.  Now you are ready fold and press the seam allowance. Start with any points and corners.  Fold the edge up straight against the point.  Press with a dry iron.  Now fold the sides up over the point, forming a miter.  Press.
fold

10.  Continue folding the starched seam allowance up against the pattern, smoothing out any wrinkles and bumps to make the front edge look the way you want it to, and pressing until dry.
press

11.  When your piece is all pressed, check it from the front to make sure the edge looks right.  Re-wet and press again any part that doesn’t.
check

12.  When you have the edge looking the way you want it to, gently peel the freezer paper pattern away from the fabric.
peel

The starched seam allowance should stay exactly where you have pressed it.
peeled

13.  Position your pattern on the foundation fabric to make sure it will looks the way you want it to.
position

14.  With Roxanne’s Glue-Baste-It, make a small bead of glue on the wrong side of the appliqué piece around the seam allowance. Stay slightly away from the very edge of the piece.
glue baste-it

15.  Position the piece where you want it on your foundation fabric and gently press it on. Now you are ready to start stitching. You can do this by hand or machine, but here I’ll show how to do it by hand.
press on

16.  Use thread that matches the appliqué piece, not the foundation fabric. I’m using red thread for visibility purposes in this tutorial. Thread the needle, knot the thread, and starting from the back, stick the needle up just through the edge of the appliqué piece. Start on a straight part of the edge, not a point, if possible. Pull the thread all the way up.
start stitch

17.  Go back down into just the foundation fabric only, very near where you first came up.
back down

18.  Without pulling the thread all the way up, guide the needle up a short distance away and up into the edge of the appliqué piece.
stitch

Pull the thread all the way up and repeat the stitch all the way around the piece.
repeat

At an inner point like at the top of this heart, take a stitch right on the point.
stitch on point

Take two more stitches, one each just a hair on either side of the first stitch in the V. Three stitches should be enough at that spot. Then continue on in the normal manner.
inner point

19.  When you get to the end of you stitching, knot the thread on the back in the foundation fabric underneath the appliqué piece without coming through to the top. Then admire your finished product!
admire

Here you can see how choosing matching thread, in this case white, can make your stitches invisible.
matching thread

The beauty of this method is that there is no messing with the seam allowance as you stitch along because you made it look right at the pressing stage. Another advantage is that there are no pins to get in the way as you sew. It is also highly portable once it is glue-basted on, and you can take it with you to places where you might have a few minutes to stitch, only needing to pack your needle, thread, and scissors along with it.

Suppose offers an applique class for hands-on, in-depth instruction in this method, check out our classes or visit us for more information.